Published: April 30, 2006 12:51 am            

Coast will never be the same

Fluffy white clouds dotted the brilliant blue of a peaceful sky one day last week. A warm sun pushed temperatures to an unseasonably high in the low 90s. Rolling waters created small white caps that crashed into the surprisingly white sands of the manmade beach.

It was a Chamber of Commerce-type day on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, the kind of day that makes visitors think of permanent homes instead of motel rooms, teenagers seek golden tans, businessmen explore options for expansion and growth, kids frolic to the cadence of deep bellied laughter, entrepreneurs overlook risks, workers daydream about weekends, restaurant owners await full dining rooms and traffic patterns test patience.

That’s the way it’s supposed to be in an area blessed with sand and sun. That’s the way it used to be on Mississippi’s southernmost coast. That’s the way it is today, but only in our memories.

Hurricane Katrina changed all that last August. Its wrath pushed 175 mph winds on the coast, killed more than 1,600 people in three states, caused more than $75 billion in damages and likely changed an area from Bay St. Louis to Pascagoula forever, uprooting lives as fiercely as the majestically gnarled, picturesque and historic trees that line what was once scenic U.S. Highway 90.

Now, eight months later, life goes on, but it’s different. An air of disbelief, a sense of caution envelopes the small towns along the coast, places with names like Waveland, De Lisle, Pass Christian, Long Beach, communities that sustained incredible damages but little public awareness because their names perhaps weren’t as noteworthy or as glitzy as Biloxi, Gulfport or New Orleans.

Even today, it’s hard to describe.

Television reports put us there, the widest of our screens capturing the horror of the storm often with life-sized updates by the minute. Newspaper reporters sought to personify the disaster, sharing as best they could the human drama through emotional eyewitness reports strong enough to earn two papers the coveted Pulitzer Prize. And books, crammed full of pages of before and after photographic comparisons, have documented the disaster in a format quicker, better and more comprehensive than ever before.

But it’s unlikely any of that sterling work truly did justice to the slice of terrifying hell that was Katrina. Only by being there, only by knowing what was and now isn’t, only by seeing the aftermath of the devastation and trying to imagine anything so powerful could cause so widespread the catastrophic heartbreak can you even begin to sense what those horrible hours must have been like, what pockets of fear, uncertainty and disbelief must have engulfed anyone with human or material links to what was home.

Dead trees dot roads entering recently lifeless towns now trying to recover. Limbless, skinny trunks shoot skyward. Twisted mobile homes, shattered motor homes, cars turned upside-down, washing machines and toilets lie unclaimed.

Clothes and material remain in trees and on fences that halted their flight. Yellow tape forbids entry to what’s left of whatever was. Plumbing is exposed, window frames empty. Blue tarps replace roofs.

Stores, gas stations, motels, shopping centers have collapsed or are gutted. Schools are empty. Church steeples have been toppled. Windows are boarded. Electronic signs and marquees say nothing. Piles of ragged rubble are a common sight.

Concrete steps lead to vacant air. Stilts have no houses. Mailboxes sit in folding chairs. Docks and piers scarcely touch the water. The bridge across the bay won’t reopen for months.

Huge antebellum columns are attached to nothing. Heavy iron fences circle nothing. Ornate gates open to nothing. People who once lived in magnificent mansion-like structures now gratefully cram families into tiny white trailers, their webbed lawn chairs and plastic outdoor tables replacing dining rooms and family rooms.

Portable school rooms and outdoor port-a-johns seem permanent. Tiny tent cities remain. Along U.S. 90 where intensive cleanup work is obvious and only one recovery center is apparently still open, concrete pads and foundations, for miles, are the only clues that once they held large, expensive homes, multi-storied apartments, office buildings, motels and stores.

Codes, spray-painted on houses, tell their own stories of when they were searched and what was found. Sometimes, the message is tragic.

The second floor balcony of the wall-less First Baptist Church in Gulfport seems eerily intact. Other churches and significant structures simply don’t exist.

Handwritten signs provide street addresses, suggest land or building remains for sale and share messages like “We’re Staying,” “Gone to Virgin Islands” or “All’s Well, Thank God.”

Seeing, sensing and even feeling its impact now, eight months later, only serves to remind how brutal the actual storm was, how incredible the consequences were that rearranged and changed lives of those who were touched.

Clean-up efforts today continue; impressively so. Reconstruction is under way. And much good has happened with an outpouring of assistance and support from across the country. American flags, some starchy crisp but most tattered from wear, are readily visible and offer a uniform, symbolic ray of eternal hope, just as does the green sprouts emerging from those wonderful trees, but all is not yet well.

Terms like demolished and leveled are now commonplace. Familiar landmarks that once served as compass-like bearings are no more and nothing big or small seems to have escaped unscathed. Darkened clouds and gusting winds are more respected now.

Residents know there will never be another Katrina. Its unbridled furry has retired its name, never to be used again. But as time passes and recovery continues, the threat of another hurricane season nears.

The tradition-rich Mississippi Gulf Coast may one day regain its prosperity and become again the lure that attracts both home dwellers and vacationers alike. When and how that might happen is anyone’s guess, but the truth is, it will never be the same.

‰ Ed Darling is the publisher of The Cullman Times. His column appears on Sundays.

        

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